How to read Wella colour numbers: the depth & tone system explained

Once you can read a Wella code, the whole chart opens up. Here’s the depth/tone system in plain English, with worked examples.

Colour theory10 June 20266 min read

A Wella shade is written as depth/tone — the number before the slash tells you how light or dark it is, and the digits after tell you the colour direction. Learn those two halves and you can read any code on the chart at a glance.

The short answer

  • Depth = lightness, 1 (black) to 12 (lightest), the number before the slash.
  • The first digit after the slash is the main tone; a second digit is a subtle nuance.
  • Tone key: 0 natural · 1 ash · 2 matte · 3 gold · 4 copper/red · 5 mahogany · 6 violet · 7 brown · 8 pearl · 9 cendré.
  • So 7/43 = a level-7 blonde, copper-gold.

The number before the slash: depth

Depth (also called level) is simply how light or dark the colour is, on a scale from 1 to 12. 1 is black, 6 is a dark blonde, 8 is a light blonde, and 10–12 are the very lightest. It’s the single most important part of the code, because tone only makes sense relative to a level.

When you’re matching a regrowth or planning a lift, you’re first deciding the target depth — then you choose the tone that sits on it.

The digits after the slash: tone

The digits after the slash describe the tonal direction. The first is the dominant tone; a second digit, if present, is a secondary nuance at roughly half the strength. Wella’s tone key is consistent across the ranges:

  • 0 — natural
  • 1 — ash (blue/green base, cools warmth)
  • 2 — matte (green)
  • 3 — gold
  • 4 — copper / red-orange
  • 5 — mahogany (red-violet)
  • 6 — violet
  • 7 — brown
  • 8 — pearl
  • 9 — cendré (soft ash)

Worked examples

7/43 is a level-7 blonde with a copper (4) primary tone and a gold (3) nuance — a warm, golden-copper blonde. 6/0 is a natural dark blonde with no added tone. 9/1 is a very light ash blonde, good for keeping lifted hair cool. 5/75 is a light brown with a brown-mahogany (chestnut) character.

Mixed tones simply blend: the further the two tone digits sit apart on the colour wheel, the more they balance each other; the closer they sit, the more they reinforce. That’s the whole logic of the system.

On-screen swatches are an indicative guide to depth and tone only — always confirm against the physical Wella chart and do a strand test before committing to a formula.

Quick questions

What does the second number after the slash mean?
It’s a secondary tone at roughly half the strength of the first. In 7/43 the 4 (copper) leads and the 3 (gold) supports it.
What does a 0 before the slash mean, like 0/43?
Codes beginning 0/ are mixers (the Special Mix tones), used to intensify or neutralise a formula rather than used on their own.

Wella, Koleston Perfect, Illumina Color, Color Touch, Shinefinity, Blondor and Color Fresh are trademarks of their respective owner. Hair Colour Supplies is an independent stockist, not affiliated with or endorsed by Wella. On-screen colours are indicative only.

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